PCV Valve Replacement Cost: Parts, Labor & Average Price

The PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation valve) is a small part that routes pressure and fumes out of the engine's crankcase and back into the intake so they get burned instead of vented. The part itself is cheap. What changes the bill is where it sits on your engine and how much has to come off to reach it.

On many older and simpler engines the valve threads into the valve cover and comes out quickly. On others it sits under the intake manifold, or it is built into a valve cover that has to be replaced as a single unit. The sections below split the price into parts and labor, show how it varies by vehicle type, and explain why published estimates do not match.

A shop quote has two pieces. The valve is a low-cost part, and the labor depends on access. Empire Auto Protect puts the part at $15 – $80, while MechanicBase lists $20 – $50 for the valve and $30 – $200 for labor at a mechanic workshop. Jerry notes that a PCV valve added during a tune-up usually adds $20 – $100 to that visit.

Those parts figures are for the valve alone. If the hoses or grommets that connect it are cracked, a shop may replace them in the same visit, and that moves the total toward the upper end of the independent shop range.

The same job costs different amounts depending on the engine. A compact car with an accessible valve sits near the bottom of the range, while turbocharged and diesel engines sit well above it because the crankcase ventilation system is larger and harder to reach.

Some European engines are the clearest example. On a few BMW engines the PCV valve is part of the valve cover, so a failed valve means a new cover. That is why the BMW row in the list above, at $700 – $1,100, is so far from the compact car figure of $60 – $150. If your car has a built-in design like this, ask the shop whether the valve is sold separately before you approve the work.

Dealers typically charge more, both for the part and for each hour of labor. The dealership figure is $120 – $450, compared with $60 – $250 at an independent shop. Dealers tend to use factory parts and book the repair using the manufacturer's labor time, which can exceed the time an experienced technician needs for an easy valve.

An independent shop can often use an aftermarket valve that meets the same specification. That is usually fine for a PCV valve, but it is reasonable to ask which brand is going in and whether the shop warranties the part and the work.

Several things change the final number on your invoice:

• Valve location. A valve in the valve cover is a short job. One under the intake manifold needs more disassembly, and more labor.
• Engine type. Turbocharged, diesel, and many European engines use larger or more complex crankcase ventilation hardware.
• Related parts. Hoses, grommets, gaskets, and an oil separator may be replaced together if they are worn.
• Shop labor rate. Rates vary by region and by type of shop.
• Diagnostic time. If a check engine light brought you in, the shop may charge to confirm the valve is the cause.

The three sources in the table below give nearly the same range, but they do not describe identical jobs.

Empire Auto Protect separates independent shops from dealerships and breaks the price out by vehicle type. Jerry gives a combined figure for the valve and its hoses, so the range may include hose work that a valve-only job would not. MechanicBase gives a general average without splitting by engine. Differences in vehicle mix, region, and whether hoses are included may explain the rest. Treat the ranges as a guide and use a written quote for your own car.

A failing valve does not always announce itself clearly. Common signs include a rough idle, oil leaks, oil consumption that you cannot account for, and a check engine light. These symptoms overlap with many other problems, so a technician should confirm the cause before parts are replaced. A stuck valve can raise crankcase pressure, which pushes oil past seals and gaskets and can lead to a larger repair if it is ignored.

• Is the valve sold separately, or is it part of the valve cover?
• Are hoses and grommets included in the quote?
• Is the part aftermarket or from the manufacturer?
• Does the price include the diagnostic charge if the check engine light is on?
• What warranty covers the part and the labor?

Check any extended warranty or service contract too, since a covered repair could cost you little or nothing.