Tie Rod Replacement Cost: Parts, Labor & Average Price

Tie rods connect the steering gear to the wheels. When you turn the steering wheel, the rack pushes or pulls the tie rods, and they pivot the wheels left or right. Each side has an inner tie rod that threads into the steering rack and an outer tie rod end that attaches to the wheel's steering knuckle. Either can wear out.

The cost depends on which one needs replacing, whether you do one side or both, and whether the quote includes the alignment. The figures below were checked on Oct 13, 2026 and come from Jerry and a second published guide.

Typical totals for a repair that includes alignment are $400 – $750. Outer ends are the simpler, cheaper job. Inner tie rods cost more because the shop must work near the steering rack, and some designs need special tools.

Replacing both sides is common. The second side costs less than the first, since the shop is already set up and one alignment covers both.

Dealerships usually charge more than independent shops for the same job. They use original equipment parts and charge higher labor rates. Independent shops can often match the quality with aftermarket parts at a lower total.

The part is the smaller piece of the bill on most cars. Aftermarket ends cost less than original equipment ones. Premium or heavy-duty parts, such as those with grease fittings, cost more. Use a reputable brand, because tie rods are safety-critical.

Outer tie rod ends are usually quick when nothing is rusted. Inner tie rods take longer. A corroded or seized part adds time, and the car's age and the climate it lives in both matter. Vehicles driven near the coast or on roads treated with salt are more likely to have stuck fasteners.

Replacing a tie rod changes the steering geometry, so a wheel alignment is required. Driving without one wears the tires quickly. Some quotes include the alignment, and others list it separately, so check before comparing prices. A shop may also replace small items such as boots or cotter pins.

One source reports a repair that includes the alignment, and another reports the cost per side at an independent shop. Neither is wrong. They describe different jobs, vehicles, and regions. Compare what each quote includes before you decide.

• Loose or wandering steering
• Clunking or knocking noises at low speeds or over bumps
• Uneven or fast tire wear
• A steering wheel that sits off center

These can also point to other suspension or steering problems, so a technician should confirm the cause.

Tie rods are part of the steering system. If one separates, the wheel can lose its connection to the steering, and the driver may lose control. Do not ignore a clunk or loose steering, and do not keep driving on a part you suspect is worn. Have a qualified technician inspect the car promptly. This repair needs proper tools, correct torque, and an alignment afterward, and the result affects safety, so it is best left to a trained professional.

An independent shop is usually the better value for an out-of-warranty car, as long as it uses quality parts and does the alignment in-house. A dealership may make sense for a newer car, a luxury model, or work that falls under a warranty. Ask for itemized quotes that show parts, labor hours, the hourly rate, and the alignment.

• Inner or outer. Inner tie rods cost more to reach and replace.
• One side or both. Doing both sides at once costs less than two visits.
• Part quality. Aftermarket and original equipment parts differ in price.
• Vehicle. Trucks and luxury cars usually cost more.
• Rust and age. Seized parts add labor.
• Alignment. It may or may not be part of the quote.