AC Unit Cost: Average Prices & Cost Factors

A new central air conditioner typically costs $6,345 – $10,575 installed, according to This Old House, with a midpoint near $8,460. That covers the outdoor condenser, the indoor coil, and the labor to connect them. Window units and ductless systems are priced differently, so the type you choose has a large effect on the total.

The numbers below come from published guides and carry a check date of Oct 11, 2026. This page covers the air conditioner itself. If you are replacing heating and cooling together, the full-system picture is on a separate HVAC page.

The table above separates five common choices. A window unit is the cheapest way to cool one room and needs no ductwork or professional install. A ductless mini-split cools individual zones without ducts, which helps in homes that never had any. Heat pumps and dual fuel systems cost more because they also heat, so they replace two pieces of equipment, not one.

If your goal is cooling a whole house with existing ducts, central AC is the standard comparison point. If you only need one or two rooms, a window unit or a single-zone mini-split may cost less than a whole-home system.

Capacity is measured in tons, where one ton equals 12,000 BTU per hour. A larger unit costs more to buy and install, and an oversized system cools the air quickly and shuts off before it removes much humidity, which can leave a room cool and clammy. Bigger is not always better.

The ranges are wide because each size figure blends different brands, efficiency ratings, and home layouts. Ask your installer to run a load calculation for your home instead of picking a size by square footage alone.

Installers bill either a flat price for the job or an hourly rate. Hourly rates for central AC work are listed below.

A straightforward swap of a matching unit is the fastest job. Labor climbs when the installer has to run new refrigerant lines, add electrical capacity, set a pad, or work in a tight attic or crawl space.

• Unit type. Window, central, mini-split, and heat pump systems sit in different price tiers.
• Capacity. More tonnage costs more, and a wrong size costs you in comfort and running cost.
• Efficiency rating. Higher-efficiency models cost more up front and may use less electricity. Your savings depend on local rates and how often the system runs.
• Existing ductwork. Sound ducts keep the job simple. Leaky or undersized ducts may need repair, which adds to the bill.
• Electrical and refrigerant lines. Older homes sometimes need a new disconnect, a new breaker, or new line sets.
• Access. Rooftop, attic, or tight-space installs take longer.
• Permits. Many areas require a permit and inspection for AC replacement.
• Brand and warranty. Premium brands and longer warranties raise the price.

Repairs are priced by the failed part. A short service visit for a minor issue sits at the low end, while compressor work sits near the top.

The two average-repair rows come from different methods. One reflects homeowner survey responses and the other reflects contractor estimates, which helps explain the gap.

Published guides differ in what they count. Some include only the equipment, some include standard labor, and some include ductwork changes, thermostats, or permits. Sample size and region matter too.

Before comparing figures, check whether each one describes a basic replacement or a full install with extras. The overlap between sources is a reasonable planning range.

A repair makes sense for a failed capacitor, contactor, or fan motor on a system that is otherwise in good shape. Replacement tends to be the better choice when the compressor fails, when the system uses a refrigerant that is being phased out, or when repair bills keep coming. Ask the contractor to price both paths side by side, and ask how old the equipment is and how much service history it has.

Refrigerant is worth a specific question. A low charge usually means a leak, so a recharge alone may only buy a short reprieve. A good technician will locate the leak first.

Window units are a reasonable DIY job. Central AC and mini-splits are not. They involve high-voltage wiring, refrigerant handling that requires federal certification, and pressure-tested connections. A poor install can shorten the life of the unit, void the manufacturer warranty, or create a safety hazard. Hire a licensed HVAC contractor and ask for proof of license and insurance.

• Does the quote cover equipment, labor, permit, and removal of the old unit?
• What size system are you recommending, and how did you calculate it?
• Which brand, model, and efficiency rating is quoted?
• Will the ducts, electrical panel, or refrigerant lines need work?
• What does the manufacturer warranty cover, and what is the labor warranty?
• Get at least three written quotes and compare them line by line.