How Much Does It Cost to Put in a Well and Septic System? (Price Guide)

A rural lot with no city water or sewer needs two separate systems: a well that supplies water and a septic system that treats wastewater. They are priced separately, built by different contractors, and approved by different permits, so it helps to budget each one on its own and then add them together.

The numbers below come from published cost guides and were checked on Oct 13, 2026. They are national ranges. Your site, your county's rules, and the depth to water or bedrock can move a quote well outside them.

Installing a private well typically costs $3,500 – $15,000, according to This Old House, including drilling, the casing, a pump, and a storage tank. Depth is the main variable. The longer the borehole, the more drilling, casing, and pipe you pay for.

The table shows how price climbs with depth. A 100-foot well runs $3,550 – $6,120, a 200-foot well $7,100 – $12,240, and a 300-foot well $10,650 – $18,360. A pressurized storage tank adds $1,400 – $2,400 on top of the drilling. Permits for drilling are set locally and listed at $5 – $500.

A licensed well driller handles the rig, casing, and grouting, and many states require a licensed driller and a filed well log. Some locations also require a water test before the water is used for drinking.

A septic system has a tank and a drainfield (leach field) that disperses treated wastewater into the soil. Cost depends on system type, which in turn depends on soil and lot conditions.

A conventional anaerobic system is the lowest-cost option, at $3,000 – $8,000. Chambered systems run $5,000 – $12,000. Aerobic and mound systems cost more, at $10,000 – $20,000 and $10,000 – $20,000, and they are typically used where soil, a high water table, or lot limits rule out a standard design. The tank alone for a three- or four-bedroom home is a 1,000-gallon unit at $900 – $1,500.

Guides often quote the full installation as a single range, and the sources are close but not identical.

This Old House gives $3,480 – $11,625, and NerdWallet gives $3,601 – $12,474 for an entire system. The small differences probably come from how each source defines the job and which systems it includes.

Before a septic system is approved, a licensed professional usually tests how fast the soil absorbs water. That "perc test" or soil evaluation decides which system the site can support, and it can change the price quite a bit if the soil forces a more complex design.

A percolation test runs $700 – $2,000, and a septic permit costs $450 – $2,300, depending on the jurisdiction. Leach field installation alone is listed by NerdWallet at $500 – $12,000, a wide range that reflects soil, size, and how much excavation the site needs.

Septic systems are designed and inspected under local health department rules. A licensed septic designer or installer handles the design, permit filing, and the inspections that follow. Work done without a permit can cause trouble with the county later.

• Well depth. Deeper wells cost more for drilling, casing, and pipe.
• Geology. Hard rock or unstable soil slows drilling.
• Distance from the house. Pipe and electrical lines to the home add cost for every foot.
• Soil and drainage. Poor soil can force a mound or aerobic system.
• Lot size and slope. A small or steep lot limits where the tank and drainfield can go.
• Household size. More bedrooms generally means a larger tank.
• Permits and testing. Local fees, water tests, and soil evaluations are separate line items.
• Site access. Rigs and excavators need room to reach the lot.

Local codes set minimum separation distances between a well and a septic tank or drainfield, so the two are usually planned together on the site plan. Ask the installers and your county health department to review both locations before work begins. A site plan that works for one system but not the other can mean moving a well or redesigning the septic layout.

Beyond the main installation, plan for a well pump and electrical hookup, water treatment if the test shows problems, a driveway or access road for heavy equipment, trenching for pipes and wiring, and a utility connection. Ongoing costs include pump maintenance and periodic septic tank pumping. Ask local providers for current pump-out prices.

1. Contact your county health department about permit steps and testing requirements.
2. Hire a licensed well driller and ask what depth neighbors' wells reach.
3. Ask a licensed septic installer for the soil evaluation and system design first.
4. Get written, itemized quotes from at least two contractors for each system.
5. Confirm what the quote includes: casing, pump, tank, pipe, permits, and restoration of the site.