Chain Link Fence Cost Calculator & Price Guide

Chain link is the most basic fence a contractor installs: galvanized or vinyl-coated steel mesh stretched between metal posts set in concrete. It goes up quickly and needs little upkeep, which is why it is so common around backyards, dog runs, and commercial lots.

Most installers price the job by the linear foot, so your yard's perimeter sets the base cost. Fence height, wire gauge, coating, gates, and ground conditions push that rate up or down. The tables below show per-foot rates, materials, sample totals, and repair costs, each tied to its published source and checked on Oct 11, 2026.

A per-foot figure usually bundles fabric, posts, top rail, hardware, and labor. The three guides below report broad residential ranges, and CostHelper also lists two specific galvanized heights.

The low end of each range fits a short, straight run of 4-foot galvanized fence on flat, easy-to-dig ground. The high end covers taller fence, heavier wire, vinyl coating, and yards with slopes, rock, or many corners. Corners and ends need heavier terminal posts and bracing, so a fence with lots of turns costs more per foot than one long straight line.

To estimate your own project, measure the full run in feet and multiply by a per-foot rate from the table above. Then add each gate separately, since gates are priced per unit. Two sources publish sample totals that show how wide the results can be.

The 100-foot range is wider than the 200-foot range because the two figures come from different sources with different assumptions. Short runs also carry fixed costs, like delivery, setup, and a crew's minimum charge, so the per-foot price on a small job often sits above the per-foot price on a large one.

A quick worksheet:

1. Measure every side to be fenced, leaving out house walls or existing fence you plan to keep.
2. Multiply the total length by a per-foot rate that matches your height and coating.
3. Add one line for each walk gate or drive gate.
4. Add privacy slats if you want screening.
5. Ask whether old fence removal and permits are included.

If you plan to buy materials and hire labor separately, or install the fence yourself, the materials-only figures help you see where the money goes. Taller fence needs longer posts, more fabric, and often heavier framing, which is why the 6-foot range sits well above the 4-foot range.

Privacy slats weave through the mesh to block sightlines and wind. They add material cost per foot and some labor, and they turn a see-through fence into a partial screen.

Gates

Every opening needs a gate, and gates add more than their footage suggests. A single walk gate is the simplest option. Double drive gates are wider and need heavier hinge posts, and some homeowners add latches or locks for pools and pets.

Labor

Some contractors bill by the hour for small jobs and repairs rather than quoting a flat price per foot.

• Height. A 6-foot fence costs more than a 4-foot fence in both materials and labor.
• Wire gauge. Lower gauge numbers mean thicker wire. Heavier wire costs more and holds up better to impact.
• Coating. Galvanized steel is the base option. Vinyl coating in black, green, or brown costs more and blends in better.
• Terrain. Slopes, rock, tree roots, and clay make post holes slower to dig.
• Layout. Each corner, end, and gate needs a terminal post, so complex layouts cost more per foot.
• Removal. Tearing out an old fence and hauling it away is often a separate line item.
• Permits and surveys. Many towns require a permit for a new fence, and a survey may be needed to confirm the property line.

The three sources below are all describing residential chain link, yet their totals differ. Each one bases its range on different fence lengths, heights, and inclusions.

This Old House reports a typical project total, NerdWallet reports a 200-foot fence, and CostHelper covers a 100-foot run across a wide span of quality levels. A source may include gates, removal, or vinyl coating in one figure and leave them out of another. Regional labor rates also differ. Compare figures for similar length and height before deciding which range fits your yard.

Chain link fails in predictable ways: a bent top rail after a tree limb falls, a leaning post from frost heave, or a torn section of mesh. Many of these are fixable without replacing the whole run, and damaged fabric can often be spliced in by the foot.

Small jobs such as resetting a post or reattaching tension bands are often billed by the hour at the labor rate above. If rust has spread along most of the fabric, or several posts have shifted, a contractor may recommend replacement instead. Ask for both prices so you can compare them.

Check with your city or county about permits, height limits, and setback rules, and read any HOA rules, which sometimes restrict fence style or color. Call 811 before anyone digs post holes so utility lines can be marked. The service is free (call811.com). When comparing quotes, confirm the wire gauge, post spacing, post depth, coating, number of gates, and whether removal of the old fence is included.