Privacy Fence Cost Calculator & Price Guide

A privacy fence is built to block sight lines, so it uses solid boards or panels with little or no gap. That makes it a bigger purchase than a picket or rail fence, since more material goes into every foot.

Most homeowners start with one question: which material fits the budget and the yard? The answer shapes the price per linear foot, how much upkeep the fence needs, and how long it holds up.

Within one material, the way the boards are laid changes the price. Cedar is a good example, because it is sold in several privacy designs.

• Dog-ear pickets are the basic option. Boards sit side by side with a rounded or pointed top.
• Board-on-board overlaps boards on both sides of the rails, which closes gaps as the wood dries.
• Metal posts add strength and resist rot in the ground, which is where wood posts tend to fail first.
• Pre-stained cedar saves you a finishing step but costs more up front.

Style also affects the look from both sides. Some designs have a finished face and a rail side, and local rules or neighbors may expect the good side to face out.

Per-foot prices become real money once you apply them to your property line. The projects below assume a 150-foot run in three materials.

Measure your own run and add gates, corners, and any slopes. Every corner and gate opening needs extra posts, and uneven ground can mean stepped or racked panels.

Gates and permits sit on top of the fence line. A gate is a separate cost, and many cities charge for a permit.

Some jurisdictions also limit privacy fence height, require setbacks from the property line, or ask for an HOA sign-off. Check these rules before you buy anything, because a fence that breaks the rules may have to come down.

• Pressure-treated pine. The lowest-cost wood option. It needs sealing or staining to last and may warp as it dries.
• Cedar. Naturally resistant to rot and insects, and attractive when stained. It costs more than pine.
• Vinyl. Needs little upkeep and does not need paint. It costs more up front and can crack under hard impact.
• Composite. A wood and plastic blend that resists rot and fading. It is the most expensive of the four.

Wood is easy to repair board by board. Vinyl and composite tend to need less maintenance but can be harder to match if a panel is damaged. Think about how long you plan to stay in the home.

• Material and grade. Board thickness and wood quality change the price.
• Fence height. Taller fences need longer boards and stronger posts.
• Post type. Metal posts cost more than wood posts and may last longer in wet soil.
• Terrain. Slopes, rock, and tree roots slow down digging.
• Old fence removal. Tearing out an existing fence adds labor and disposal.
• Finish. Stain or sealant is extra unless the boards come pre-finished.
• Location. Local labor rates and lumber prices differ.

A lot of the published figures come from fence companies describing their own markets, so they reflect local labor and the materials those companies sell.

Gaps between sources may come from region, the materials each assumes, and whether the quote includes gates, stain, and removal. One guide covers all fence types, while others look only at 6-foot wood. Compare similar scopes, and use these ranges as a starting point for local bids.

A confident DIYer can build a privacy fence on flat ground with a simple layout. The work is heavy, though. Setting posts straight and at the same height, and keeping rails level over a long run, takes time and patience. Mistakes in post setting are hard to fix after the concrete cures.

Call 811 before digging so buried utilities are marked. If you hire a pro, ask about the permit, property-line survey, and whether the quote covers hauling away the old fence.

• What are the material, height, and style, and what is the price per foot?
• Are posts wood or metal, and how deep and wide are the holes?
• Is the permit, stain, gate hardware, and cleanup included?
• Who confirms the property line?
• What warranty covers workmanship and materials?