Chimney Liner Cost: Average Prices & Cost Factors

A chimney liner is the tube inside the chimney that carries smoke and combustion gases out of the house and keeps heat and moisture away from the surrounding masonry and framing. Over time liners crack, flake, or corrode, and a new fuel type or appliance can also call for a different liner. When that happens, relining is usually the fix.

The price comes down to liner material, chimney height and shape, roof access, and the labor to install it. The numbers here are drawn from published guides and a consumer review platform, last checked Oct 13, 2026.

Installation cost has two parts, the liner and the crew. Stainless steel is the common choice for relining, and the labor line below applies to that job.

Material is priced separately and depends on the length of the run. Longer chimneys, steep roofs, and offset flues take more time and more liner.

Liner material changes both the price and the type of work. Stainless steel is flexible or rigid pipe that is lowered into the flue. Clay tile is the traditional masonry liner. Cast-in-place liners are formed inside the chimney with a special mix and need specialized equipment.

Clay and cast-in-place liners cost less per square foot of material than stainless, but they take more labor and equipment to install. That can erase the savings, so compare the installed price instead of the material rate alone.

Replacing a liner that has failed usually costs more than a first-time install, since the old liner may need to come out first and the flue may need repair. The figures below cover relining and flue replacement from two Yelp guides.

The wider spread reflects the range of jobs. A straightforward reline in a short, straight chimney sits at the bottom, while a tall, damaged, or hard-to-reach chimney costs much more.

Sometimes the liner can be patched. A few cracked clay tiles may be repaired without replacing the whole flue, which is cheaper. If the damage is widespread, or the liner has deteriorated along its length, repair rarely holds and replacement is the safer course.

A chimney camera inspection shows how much of the liner is damaged. That inspection is the best basis for deciding between repair and replacement.

A liner should be inspected before and after work. Inspection finds cracks and creosote buildup, and cleaning removes soot and deposits that make fires more likely.

If your chimney serves a wood-burning fireplace or stove, annual inspection and cleaning are normally recommended. Gas and oil appliances produce different byproducts, but they also need a liner suited to them.

• Liner material. Stainless steel, clay, and cast-in-place liners are priced differently and installed differently.
• Chimney height and diameter. More length means more material and more labor.
• Roof pitch and access. Steep or tall roofs slow the crew and can require extra safety equipment.
• Condition of the flue. Damaged masonry or a collapsed old liner adds repair work.
• Fuel type. Wood, gas, and oil appliances each have specific requirements, so the liner must match the appliance.
• Insulation. Some installs wrap the liner in insulation, which adds material and time.
• Old liner removal. Taking out a damaged liner can add to the job.
• Permits and inspection. Some areas require a permit or a follow-up inspection.
• Location. Labor rates differ by region.

Chimney work is hard to compare across sources because jobs differ so much. This Old House reports a typical price for the liner itself. Yelp's range reflects relining after severe damage, which tends to be more involved.

Ask each bidder what is included: the liner, the connection to the appliance, a cap, insulation, removal of the old liner, and cleanup.

Signs of a failing liner include crumbling tile pieces in the firebox or at the base of the chimney, visible cracks or gaps during an inspection, and a smell of smoke in the house. A new appliance or a change of fuel type can also require relining, because the old liner may not be sized or rated for the new equipment. A qualified chimney professional can confirm whether yours still works.

This is a job for a licensed professional. Rigid and flexible liners must be sized correctly and sealed to the appliance, and a poor install can allow carbon monoxide or heat to reach the house. Work on the roof also carries a fall risk. Local codes often require a permit or inspection, and your insurance may care whether a qualified installer did the work. Ask for written proof of licensing and insurance, and check your local building department for permit rules. For gas and oil appliances, the installer should confirm that the liner meets manufacturer requirements.

• What liner material and diameter is quoted, and does it match your appliance?
• Is the price for materials and labor, and does it include the cap and connection?
• Will the old liner be removed, and who disposes of it?
• Is insulation part of the quote?
• Who pulls the permit, and is an inspection required?
• What warranty covers the liner and the labor?
• Will a camera inspection be done before and after?