How Much Does It Cost to Install Pocket Door? (Price Guide)

A pocket door slides into a hollow cavity inside the wall instead of swinging into the room, which saves floor space in tight bathrooms, hallways, and closets. The price depends on the wall. Building one into new construction or an open wall is far simpler than cutting into a finished wall that may hide wiring, pipes, or a vent.

The figures below come from a cost guide that compiles contractor quotes and carry a check date of Oct 13, 2026. They describe a single standard opening. Double pockets, glass panels, and special hardware cost more.

The same door can cost very different amounts depending on where it goes. The table below separates new construction, a retrofit, and a double pocket with upgraded finishes.

A new build with an open wall sits at the low end because the contractor frames the pocket as part of the wall. A retrofit adds demolition, framing, drywall repair, trim, and paint. A double pocket between two rooms adds a second slab, heavier hardware, and often glass or matching trim.

The same guide reports a second set of figures from a different data source. Those range from $550 – $3,300 for new construction to $1,550 – $4,200 when retrofitting an existing wall. The higher numbers for retrofits reflect extra labor and structural changes. Where the wall is load bearing, the opening needs a properly sized header, which adds time.

Most pocket doors start with a frame kit that includes the track, hardware, and a pre-built cage that becomes the pocket inside the wall. The door slab, jambs, and trim are bought separately.

Soft-close hardware adds parts cost and a small labor charge. Match the hardware to the weight of the door. Heavy solid-wood or glass doors need stronger runners.

Labor is the largest part of a retrofit.

Hourly rates for general carpentry vary by region, and the hours depend on the wall. Permits and inspections are an additional cost in some areas, particularly when the work involves wiring or plumbing.

• Wall type. Open walls and non-load-bearing walls cost less than finished or load-bearing ones.
• Utilities in the wall. Moving a switch, outlet, pipe, or vent adds electrician or plumber time.
• Door material and weight. Solid wood and glass need heavier hardware than hollow core.
• Single or double. Double pocket openings cost more.
• Hardware. Soft-close mechanisms and upgraded pulls raise the price.
• Finishing. Paint-grade trim is faster than stain-grade, and matching existing trim takes time.
• Permits. Some places require a permit, especially for wiring or structural changes.
• Region. Local wages change the labor portion.

A pocket door saves the swing space of a regular door and disappears when open. It costs more to install than a hinged door, because the wall opening has to be wide enough to hold the slab and the framing. A barn door slides along the wall instead of inside it, so it costs less and avoids opening the wall. It also covers wall space when open and gives less sound and privacy control. A cased opening with no door is the lowest-cost way to improve flow, but it offers no privacy.

A pocket door cannot be your only exit door. Codes require at least one side-hinged egress door in a home. Pocket doors on accessible routes should also leave enough clear width for a wheelchair, so confirm local requirements before you plan the opening. A local building department can answer questions about permits and code.

Cost guides differ in what they count. One may include only the door and hardware, while another includes framing, drywall, trim, and paint. Some mix new construction and retrofits, which pushes the range wider. Read the scope before comparing numbers. This guide's overall range is $800 – $2,500, and the scenario table above shows how much the wall changes the result.

A pocket door kit is within reach of a skilled DIYer when the wall is open. A finished wall is a different job. Cutting into drywall can reveal wiring or plumbing, and framing a wider opening takes carpentry skill. If the wall is load bearing, hire a professional. A bad installation leads to a door that jumps its track, rubs the frame, or fails to close fully.

• Is the wall load bearing, and what does that add?
• Does the price include the frame kit, door slab, trim, paint, and drywall repair?
• What happens if wiring or plumbing is found inside the wall?
• Which hardware is included, and is it soft close?
• Who handles the permit?