How Much Does It Cost to Install Tile? (Price Guide)

Tile is set one piece at a time in mortar, then grouted, so installation is slower and more skilled than most other flooring. The floor has to be flat and rigid, the layout planned so cuts land in sensible places, and every tile set level with its neighbors. That labor is why installation often costs as much as the tile itself, or more.

The total for any job comes from four pieces: installation labor per square foot, the tile you choose, prep and removal work, and the size and type of area being tiled. This page covers each one. The figures were checked on Oct 11, 2026.

Most tile setters quote labor by the square foot for floors and walls.

The low end applies to medium-size ceramic or porcelain tile laid in a straight grid on an open floor. Labor climbs with:

• Small tiles and mosaics, which mean more pieces and more grout lines
• Large-format tiles, which need a very flat substrate and careful handling to avoid lippage (uneven edges)
• Diagonal, herringbone, or other patterned layouts that create more cuts
• Natural stone, which may need sealing and gentler cutting
• Walls and showers, where tile is set vertically and has to be waterproofed behind
• Lots of cuts around toilets, cabinets, vents, and doorways

Material price ranges overlap, but each type has a typical place.

Ceramic tile is the budget choice for floors and walls in low- to moderate-traffic rooms. Porcelain is denser and absorbs less water, which makes it a common pick for bathrooms, kitchens, entries, and outdoor use in some climates. Wood-look porcelain mimics hardwood planks with the water resistance of tile. Natural stone, including slate, marble, and travertine, has unique variation from piece to piece but needs periodic sealing. Glass tile is mostly used for backsplashes and accent walls rather than floors.

Budget for setting materials as well: thinset mortar, grout, spacers, and for wet areas a waterproofing membrane. Order extra tile to cover cuts and breakage, and keep a few spares from the same production lot for future repairs.

Tile cracks when the floor underneath flexes or is uneven, so prep is not optional.

Removing old tile is dusty, heavy work, which is why demolition is priced as its own per-square-foot line. A self-leveling compound fills dips in a concrete or plywood subfloor. Over wood framing, installers often add cement backer board or an uncoupling membrane before setting tile. If the subfloor is damaged or too springy, joists or plywood may need repair first.

Many homeowners think in rooms rather than square feet. Taskrabbit publishes project ranges for the most common tile jobs.

A kitchen backsplash is a small area but involves lots of cuts around outlets and windows. A shower costs more than a bathroom floor of similar size because the walls must be waterproofed, the niche and curb built, and the floor sloped to the drain. Note the minimum project fee: very small jobs, such as replacing a few broken tiles, often cost the minimum regardless of area.

Use the figures above to build a rough budget:

1. Measure the area in square feet. For walls, multiply height by width for each wall and subtract windows and doors.
2. Multiply the area by a labor rate from the labor table.
3. Multiply the area, plus a waste allowance, by the material rate for the tile you want.
4. Add prep: demolition per square foot if old tile is coming out, and leveling if the floor is uneven.
5. Add setting materials, trim pieces, and any transition strips.
6. Compare the result with the project ranges and the minimum fee.

The two sources report overlapping per-square-foot ranges with different upper limits.

Taskrabbit's figure describes labor for standard tile installation, while RUBI's range may include more expensive tile types and more complex layouts. Neither source accounts for your specific subfloor, so prep costs can push a real quote above both. Regional labor rates and the installer's experience add further spread.

A small backsplash or a simple floor in a powder room is a reasonable DIY project for a patient homeowner with a wet saw and a good level. Larger floors, large-format tile, and showers are a different matter. A shower that is not properly waterproofed can leak into walls and subfloors for a long time before anyone notices, and repairs mean tearing the tile out. Check whether your city requires a permit for shower or bathroom work, and ask installers which waterproofing system they use and whether they warranty it.